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Volume 1, No. 4 - September 2001 |
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Jammu (Tawi) Beauteous and
bright is the land of Duggar , Romantic green meadows, majestic mountains, Bewitching lakes and valleys, Picturesque views, breathtaking beauty… Yes, JAMMU has the
uncanny ability to surprise and spellbound you at every turn. Tucked
snugly between golden glittering "Shikhars" (domes) on ancient temples
and holy shrines perched atop hillsides, lie the most amazing scenes you
could ever imagine. History The city name figures in the ancient book Mahabharata. Name of Jammu city is also found in the memories of Timur.Excavation near Akhnoor provide evidences that Jammu was a part of Harappan civiliaziation. Remains of Mauryan , Kushan, and Gupta periods have also been found. Jammu had a number of tiny principalities but kingdom of Jammu always occupied a leading place. Maldev and Ranjit Dev were among the eminent rulers. Ranjit Dev ruled this kingdom from 1723-1783. His successors were weak, which ultimately brought Sikh regime to Jammu. When Maharaja Ranjit Singh was faced with a rebellion he sent Gulab Singh, a scion of Dogra family to control it. He was a descendent of Maharaja Ranjit Dev. Displaying enviable valours, he annexed whole of Jammu region to sikh kingdom. After the death of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, his successors could not keep the kingdom intact and fell pray to place intrigues, hastening its downfall. When its power was completely eroded after III war, the victorous British India Govt. demended an indemnity of 1.50 crores. Since Sikh rulers were unable to pay this amount, gulab Singh pays the Rs.75 lakhs and in exchange got territory of Kashmir and certain other areas under Treaty of Amritsar on March 16, 1846. Thus Gulab Singh integrated Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh regions in one administrative unit, with this the Dogra rule was established in the state. After Gulab Singh, Maharaja Ranbir Singh became the ruler in 1857 and ruled up to 1885. On his death Partap Singh became the ruler and presented introduced many reforms. His nephew Maharaja Hari Singh succeeded Maharaja Partap Singh in 1925 who signed the instrument of accession on October 26, 1947 in favour of Union of India. It was the British paramount lapsed; J and K became an integral part of India. He abdicated his responsibilities on June 20, 1949 and made his son Dr. Karan Singh a Regent who was the last monarch. People of Jammu "MITHI JAYEE
DOGRAIN THE BOLI TE' KHAND MITHE LOG DOGRE"
A sturdy people, the Dogras are divided into several castes and classes. A common attribute of the Dogras of various denominations is their physical sturdiness. Their staple food consists of rice, wheat and pulses. Their dress is simple- a short coat or a flowing shirt, with pyjamas loose at the knees and tight fitting at the ankles. the men's turban on the head is generally complemented by a 'kamarbandh' at the waist. With a shawl or a 'dupatta' thrown over the head, women put on tight-fitting bodice or jumpers over pyjaamas which resemble those of the men folk. The Dogra Rajputs, who have traditionally made the army their profession, do not, however, have a big built; their average height being five feet four inches (160 cms). They are average to the point of being indefatigable and can stand long marches over hilly terrain. The men's complexion is light brown, the women's lighter still. A simple and almost childish people, the Dogras tend to be traditionally clannish more so in the rural areas. The Brahmins of the Jammu region are mostly engaged in agriculture. A minority among them comprise the priest class. The Chibbalis and the Sudans- the chief sects among the Muslim Rajputs- are also a martial race. Jammu province is inhabited by diverse castes and sects. Khatris and Mahajans are of Punjabi stock. They are less handsome than the Rajputs and are not hardy like them. They generally follow sedentary occupations like trade and commerce. Harijans constitute another large segment of the population. They are agriculturists and pursue semi-skilled professions. Strong-muscled, virile, simple and truthful, the Paharis inhabit the hilly tracts of the 'middle mountains'. Theirs is a very hard life, rearing sheep and cultivating the sparse available tracts of land on hilly, sloppy terraces for barley, wheat and maize. This area also supplies a considerable number of recruits to the Army. Lack of communications to the outside world has isolated them and contributed to their comparative poverty, as well as to their remaining practically untouched by what are called by them "the vices and vulgarities of town". Their hospitality is exemplary. Frugal in habits, their diet is simple and sparse- wheat bread with whey and lentils. their language is a mixture of Dogri, Punjabi and Hindi. Generally dressed in gray woolens and loose pyjamas, they also flaunt a 'kamarbandh'. Women wear long loose tunics, close fitting 'churidars' and 'dupatta' or cap to complete their charming ensemble. The Dogras are deeply attached to their land. Much of their folklore- myths and legends-relates to their Shrines. Historical Places in
Jammu Now, open to tourists, the Amar Mahal which has been converted into a museum, houses the city's finest library of antique books and paintings. An entire series of miniatures on the epic Nal- Damyanti can be seen there in the museum. The most spectacular possession of museum is a 120 Kg. pure gold throne on which maharaja used to sit. The throne is placed in a hexagonal room with a door opening towards the forest view of Shivalik hills and deep down Tawi river. The museum also has a library in which about 25,000 books on various subjects and disciplines have been preserved.
The famous temple of "Bawe wali maata" is inside the Bahu fort, where every Tuesday and Sunday pilgrims throng and jostle one another to worship the Goddess. The fort is on a hilltop opposite the river Tawi. It overlooks the river flowing placidly down the Jammu city. Seeing from top of the hill one could witness a beautiful sunset and river Tawi changing colours. A little further away, on a hill top opposite the Bahu Fort, is a lovely spot overlooking the river Tawi where a temple dedicated to Mahamaya has been constructed.
Gold plated bow and arrow of Mughal emperor Shah Jehan and a number of carpentry tools also make an important section of the museum. The museum also has hand written manuscripts of Shahnama and Sikendernama both in Persian. There is also a stone plate on which Takri script has been inscribed.
The complex has halls and galleries which were used for official functions and public events. The palaces are built as a group of buildings around the courtyard. Successive Dogra rulers kept on consolidating their influence over the region and the state, and these buildings were used as Royal residence.
Temples of Jammu In two big halls, there are 1.25 lakh "bona-lingam' brought from Narmada, embedded in the platform. There are huge images of Ganesha and Kartikeya and a Nandi Bull in the varandah in the front and Bhairav image in the compound. On every Shivratri, a big mela is held at the temple. The temple was constructed by Maharaja Ranbir Singh whose statue has been installed in the temple premises.
Peer Kho presently constitutes of two caves located at a depth of about 20 to 30 ft. below the surface of the temple complex. After descending a flight of marble steps the cave starts. On the right side, the height of the tunnel cave starts. On the right side, the height of the tunnel cave is about 4.5 ft to 5.0 ft. A normal person has to walk on bending while crossing the cave. The length of this portion is about 15 ft and breadth about 3 ft. After this tunnel comes a broader cave with black colored natural Shivlingam in the center. This pentagonal cave is about 12 ft. in height and about 12 ft. wide. Panjbakhtar Temple
Nagbani Sudh Mahadev Thousands of pilgrims visit the temple especially during 3-day fair held on the occasion of Jestha Purnima. Before entering the temple the pilgrims take bath in the holy Devika which flows nearby. The beautiful location of Sudh Mahadev temple and Mantalai Ashram adds to the beauty of the place. The site gives commanding scenic view of the area. A popular legend is associated with the Shrine. It is believed that Lord Shiva who was in his samadhi shot his big trishul to protect his consort Uma whose loud cry shook Shiva out of his meditation. Infact Shiva's devotee, Sudheet approached Uma to pay his respectful obeisance. Since he was a demon in his previous birth according to the legend, his demonaic looks frightened her and she made a loud shriek. The trident which Lord Shiva had flung hit Sudheet. Shiva realised his mistake and he offered to resuscitate him. But Sudheet felt that there could be no better life than death given by Lord Shiva Himself. Lord Shiva then gave his command that Sudheet's name will be prefixed to his name at that place. Since then it is called Sudh Mahadev. The broken trident in three pieces, is installed in the temple.
Buddhe Amarnath Shrine Shri Budhe Amarnath ji, the eternalLord Shiva, manifests himself in the form of a chakmak rock at Rajpura mandi, 23 kms. north of Poonch. Unlike other Shiva temples where Lord Shiva is worshipped in the form of a lingam, the occularity of Shri Budde Amarnath ji temple is that the Shiva reveals himself here in form of a white chakmak rock. The road to Rajpura Mandi takes off from Chandak, 235 kilometers from Jammu and 11 km short of Poonch on Jammu-Poonch road. At Budhe Amarnath ji, the devotees take a dip in a spring which flows beneath the temple for purification and then have darshan as of immortal Lord Shiva and makes offerings.It is believed that Lord Shiva grants wishes to everyone who makes a pilgrimage to Budhe Amarnath ji on this auspicious day.It is also said that pilgrimage Amarnath remains incomplete without a visit to this shrine. According to a legend, Ravanas grand father Pulastya Rishi had a darshan of Lord Shiva at this place and so the Loran Nullah is also known as Pulastya Nullah. It is also said that during one of his visits to the famous Amarnath ji cave in Kashmir Lord Shiva had a breif sojourn at the place of present Buddha Amarnath ji temple at Mandi and started revealing to his consort Parvati the mortal secret story of eternal bliss and immortality. The story later got completed at Amarnath ji cave in kashmir. So both the places are considered to be equally holy and sacred by the devotees. Though the devotees in thousands visit the shrine on Shravan Poornima, heavy rush is witnessed throughout the year. Jain and Buddhist
Temples Among the Jain temples, most beautiful and famous is the Jain Temples at patel chowk in the heart of the old city. The images inside the temple includes Lord Mahavira and other Tirthankaras. They are all of marble. Besides, Jain School on Rani Park road in the city has also a small Jain temple which is visited by a large number of Jains. A new Jain temple in the developing Jain colony at Jammu is under construction. As most of the Buddhists belongs to Paddar area, many buddha Gompas are situated in Paddar and many of them are wooden structures. However, one of the enignas of Jammu's religious histiry has been the absence of any Buddhists foundations of remains. The puzzle was all he more surprising because in ancient times Buddhists had one of its prominent seats in the vicinity of Jammu. This was at Sialkote (ancient name Sakala) now in Pakistan. Besides a positive evidence of existance of a Buddhist establishment at Ambarran near Akhnoor (28 Km from Jammu) was brought to light a few decades ago. Among the terracotas found there, were Buddha heads, torsos of bodies and pieces of drapery belongings to Buddha figures of monks and laymen amd womwn profusely decorated. The terracota Buddha heads, now placed in the Dogra Art Gallery, Old Secretriate Jammu have been assigned to the 8th or 9th century A.D. So it can easily be concluded that Buddhism once flourished in Jammu but now the religion remains confined within Paddar are of Kishtwar in Doda. |
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Amar Mahal
Museum
Bahu Fort
Dogra Art
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